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The large pond is made of "gunite",
air-sprayed concrete, with fiber reinforcement added to the concrete
mix. This picture shows the start of the gunite process, stretching
the 4 inch hose from the gunite pump some 75 feet to the hole
in the backyard. |
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Here Floyd Bair is attaching the hose
to the gunite pump. It will put both air and concrete into the
hose line. |
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Little did john know what a
long, but fun, day this would be. The Bair Company took fourteen
mixing trucks of concrete (42 yards) and 13 hours of spraying
concrete to finish the pond walls. This
work cost john $6000 and was well worth it!
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| Gunite is amazing
in that it requires only Kraft paper lined with chicken wire to
spray against. For extra smooth or graceful curves, 1/4 inch masonite
was also used as a form. Once a little of the gunite has set up,
it makes it's own form! |
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Note the rebar on 9 inch centers and
the white drains on the bottom of the pond.
These three drains were placed in the bottom of the pond with
2 inch flexible hoses attached. They have pressure-relief valves
to allow rain water under the concrete to come into the pond.
This prevents the pond from floating or cracking from underground
pressure. Also, note the black 4 inch pipe running along
the bottom. It will go to an external settling tank and be part
of a surface strainer system. There is another one just out of
sight on the right. |
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Gunite is starting to flow out the hose
now. |
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Within 1/2 hour you could stand on the concrete,
so workers shaped and smoothed the concrete very quickly after
it was sprayed.
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Spraying more gunite. Afterwards the area behind
this wall gets filled with gravel and compacted dirt and makes
the base for the large waterfall. A
4 inch PVC pipe was put down before the gravel and dirt to allow
a way to provide for expansion of electrical or other plumbing
later on. Empty landscape electrical and sprinker system tubing
was also laid under the pond before the gunite was sprayed.
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The shallow portion of the pond (24 inches
deep) was done for two reasons, 1) the power lines for the house
ran underneath this area, and 2) this made a great place for a
lily pond area. Since koi really can do a number on plants, john
figured he would fence the front off and keep this area just for
plants.
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| john washed the
inside of the pond with vinegar to neutralize the surface lime
and with muratic acid to remove excess concrete from drains, etc.
He then spent two days rolling 60 gallons of a rubberized surface
compound (HLM 5000, Liquid Cold-Applied Waterproofing Membrane)
on the inside of the pond.
If you look very closely you can see groves
at the top level of the concrete. These are overflows to direct
excess water. Also, not visible here, are four plastic inlets
along the sides to provide additional aeration for koi during
hot periods. |
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| Note how when water hits the dried
rubber at the bottom, it turns a tan-gray color. These pillars are
sunk into the ground 3 feet below the pond. They are not going anywhere.
A large rock stepping stone have since been mounted on the top of
each pillar. The water depth is 5 feet at this point. So far no
one has gone for an unexpected swim with the fish. |
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Supports for the five stepping
stones were made by spraying the gunite into waxed cardboard
construction tubes, in this case, 20 inches in diameter.
A view of the steps from the deck and the
beginning of the garden beyond. You can see the black pipe (capped
with a temporary white cap) at the bottom right. This will be
cut off just at water level to become a whirlpool to skim leaves,
etc. from the surface of the pond.
Later, john filled the pond
with a garden hose for three days. He has since moved 60 tons
of rock to edge the pond, walkways and to build waterfalls.
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